Last few weeks as an intern...

Wow, what an adventure I’ve had so far! I mean, I’ve been in India for 5 ½ weeks so far and have seen, tasted, smelled, and experienced more than I could have imagined. Traveling alone was incredible, and I am so glad I actually did it. Now that I’m able to reflect on it, I am thankful for even the scary parts of my trip (i.e. being stalked in Jaipur). Through everything I experience, I learn more about myself and more about the world. I have now traveled in both Northern and Southern India, but have yet to travel in many states in the Western part of India. I will save that for my next journey...
In the last few weeks, I have been living in a two-story bungalow in a small town called Pen. Pen is located about 2 ½ hours southeast of Mumbai. The state I am in is called Maharashtra, and people here speak both Hindi and Marathi (their state language). I have been struggling to learn Hindi, which is the national language, as well as Marathi to appease the locals here. However, it is not too difficult to get by with English. This is unfortunate, because then I become lazy and only want to speak English. I am practicing Hindi and Marathi every day, though. Slowly but surely I will be able to communicate relatively well in one or the other, and maybe both.

Journey to Pune - Happy Diwali!

This morning, I woke up to the sounds of fireworks outside my room. Due to the official day of Diwali, fireworks were being set off the night before and then around 5am this morning. Thus, I woke at 6am, began getting ready for the day and then went downstairs and made chai and breakfast for everyone before we left.
We left the house at 7:20am, but right before that, Leena (from next door) brought over a plate of sweets and wished us a Happy Diwali – it’s custom to make sweets for the week before Diwali, in order to eat them and give them to others during the 5-day celebration. We had been told the bus to Pune would be leaving at 7:30, but apparently it didn’t arrive until 8:30. We waited for an hour and then hopped onto a PACKED bus. There were no seats, and some people were even standing! We had been warned that many people travel during the festival, but we didn’t take it seriously until we saw it for ourselves. So, we stood on the bus for over an hour and then found seats to squish into, where we shared two seats with three people (including our huge backpacks).
The trip to Pune took 3 ½ hours for the incredibly cheap price of Rs. 80 ($1.90) each. I met some wonderful people on the bus who exchanged sweets and nuts with us (we had brought some to munch on and also give to others for Diwali), and small talk, and Happy Diwali wishes.
Upon arriving to Pune, we transferred buses to Katraj (from the Swarget bus station). From Katraj, we found a rickshaw man who was willing to take us to our hostel (apparently, it was far away). It took us an hour to find it, because the driver kept stopping and asking for directions- not to mention, the hostel was way out in the middle of nowhere on top of a hill that was rocky and dangerous to drive up. On this dinky rickshaw, we were squished in the back and pretty dang sure we would tip over from all the potholes and bumpiness of the roads.
When we finally arrived to the hostel, the rickshaw man refused to drive us up the large windy rocky hill it would take to reach the top. So, we walked. It only took about 7 minutes, but I was so dehydrated and hot from the intensity of the sun. We were all thinking, “What the heck have we gotten ourselves into??” But, when we reached the top, I felt all my worries vanish. I could seem a magnificent view of the city and the wide lake below us. Plus, the breeze was cooler from the elevation change. When I entered the hostel, it was nothing like the crap hole I expected! For Rs. 300 ($6) per night, we stayed in a large room with three beds, and two couches, was served chai and snacks whenever we wanted them, and could climb the roof to see the view any time! There was a grass lawn outside (which, I haven’t seen in a really long time) and a swimming pool.
We all put our stuff down, downed our water bottles, ate our snacks, and then called the hotel’s rickshaw to pick us up and bring us back into town, because we only had one day to spend in the city. Despite our exhaustion from traveling, there was no time for rest. We made our way into the city (45 min.) and ate Domino’s Pizza! What an exciting lunch after eating Indian food three times a day for the last month!
Afterwards, my mission was to get as much shopping done for the best deals as I could in one day. We took a rickshaw to a place called Laxmi Road, where jewelry, clothing, handmade art, book, and more are sold for miles ahead. Jess and I bought tons of things for super cheap and found this block that had nothing but bookstores for at least a mile. This was just what I wanted, because Indian history, culture, religion, philosophy, spirituality, yoga, and diets books are all sold here for very cheap prices.
Afterwards, Jess and I met up with Reid at McDonalds. I would never resort to McDonald’s in America because of the variety we have, but this was so exciting to eat in India! After dinner, we waited outside for our rickshaw driver to pick us up. Many fireworks were being blown up on the streets, and it seemed like they were going off out of nowhere! When the rickshaw brought us home, we had to dodge so many fireworks because they were simply being thrown into the street! One of them actually went off as we were driving on it. I was surprised we didn’t blow up. The ride was dark and bumpy, and honestly a little scary. But, we arrived to our hostel with only a few burns from shards of fireworks blowing into the rickshaw. The driver had to take us up one by one up the hill. Luckily, Reid had his headlamp with him, so he easily walked to the hostel. However, I was pretty dang sure there were snakes everywhere and was not ready to encounter one. So, I took the rickshaw.
We got home and watched all the fireworks on the roof that were being lit below us throughout the city. They were constantly blowing up from everywhere! It was beautiful (from a distance, ha ha). What a magical time Diwali is.
The way home on the bus was just as adventurous as the way there, but I am pleased to say that I came home in one piece. What a great memory I will always laugh at!

Trip to Alibag - I swam in the Arabian Sea!

I visited Alibag, a city located 45 minutes from Pen, and went to the beach! Jessica was sick, so Reid and I took a bus to Alibag. We ate at an air-conditioned restaurant that served chicken and shrimp and beer! All of these things we had not had for SO long, it seemed. We had a feast, and the total bill was only Rs. 710, which comes out to a little over $14! Afterwards, we walked to the beach (the Arabian Sea), and took turns watching each other’s stuff while we swam in the ocean. The water was warmer than any other beach I had ever been in, the sun was shining, and everyone was having a blast. Here in India, with the exception of Goa, people do not wear bathing suits in the water. Men are aloud to remove their shirts, but women wear all of their clothing in the water. Although it would have been easier to tread through the water with a bathing suit on, or at least some shorts, my outfit dried after an hour in the sun! We walked along the beach finding seashells that you can only find in India. I kept many of them, including ones that were small and bright pink!! We went shopping, stopped and had a soda, and then made our way back home on the bus. What a great day.

Sunday, October 4th - I fried Banana Pakodas!

Sunday, October 4th – I fried Banana Pakodas!!

This morning, I woke up and fried some banana pakoda’s that Sheetal (our cook) taught me to make! They are a special Punjabi dish made in Rajasthan that Sheetal just happens to know the recipe for. In India, each state has their own specialty dishes, clothing and culture. Banana Pakoda’s are so sweet and delicious! Here’s the recipe, if anyone wants to try it!:

1 ½ CUPS OF WHEAT FLOUR, 2 SMALL BANANAS, ½ CUP OF BROWN SUGAR, 1 CUP WATER, ½ TSP. SALT. MASH ALL OF THIS UP TOGETHER UNTIL EVERYTHING IS MIXED UP AND SMOOTH, AND KEEP INSIDE A COVERED BOWL FOR APPX. 7 HOURS. THERE IS NO NEED TO REFRIGERATE IT. AFTER 7 HOURS, PUT 2 CUPS OF OIL INTO A PAN, AND BALL UP PALM-SIZE BANANA PAKODA’S THE BEST YOU CAN. THEY ARE KINDA RUNNY, SO THEY DON’T END UP BEING IN THE SHAPE UP A BALL AND YOU KIND OF HAVE TO SLIDE THEM OFF YOUR HAND. IT’S NOT IMPORTANT WHAT THEY LOOK LIKE, THOUGH. PUT 5 OR 6 BALLS INTO THE HOT OIL AT A TIME AND FLIP THEM WHEN ONE SIDE IS GOLDEN BROWN. THIS SHOULD TAKE ONLY A FEW MINUTES TO COOK THEM! THEN, REMOVE THEM AND ADD ANOTHER 5 OR 6 BALLS. ALL TOGETHER, DEPENDING ON THE SIZE YOU MAKE THEM, YOU SHOULD HAVE AT LEAST 20 BANANA PAKODA’S! THEY ARE SO YUMMY! LET THEM SIT FOR A FEW MINUTES TO PREVENT BURNING YOUR MOUTH.


I was so afraid that they wouldn’t be cooked all the way through that I burned them, but I was proud of myself, nonetheless. Afterwards, Sheetal and I made chai and masala noodles for breakfast. We had to rush to get ready for the baby shower we were attending, because Sheetal’s husband was picking us up at 9:30! Sheetal left, because she had to cook for the baby shower, so her husband picked us up and brought us to their village. Apparently, I was inappropriately dressed, because I wasn’t wearing the traditional Indian Salwaar Kameez. Instead, I wore a long skirt, tank top, and a scarf that covered my chest, shoulders, and arms. I’m not sure why, but I think because I was wearing a tank top and my back was exposed more than normal, Sheetal was embarrassed. I felt so bad, because I had no idea it was inappropriate. Indians wear Sari’s all the time, and the blouses always expose their backs, but they always have sleeves. Something about the straps on my tank top probably seemed scandalous, so I felt really bad. So, Sheetal gave me a different scarf (“dupata” in India terms) that wrapped around my back and chest. But, I learned my lesson: any time I go anywhere in India, cover as much as I can! Sometimes, though, when I’m traveling to a different state or city in India, I just feel like wearing American clothing because the Indian outfits are so dang hot. And, I do this when I know people look at me as a foreigner who doesn’t know any better!

September 29th- I step in cow dung!

Today, I did yoga at 7am and practiced some tough asanas. I am pleased to say that my glutes are so sore! After yoga, I enjoyed my walk home and took photos of the large lake next to the temple I have my yoga lessons at. After showering and eating breakfast, Jessica didn’t feel well, so she chose to stay home for the day. Reid and I left, and while walking, we stopped to photograph some gorgeous Indian flowers. I accidentally called Shane, and I heard “hello? Hello?” from my bag. Though accidental, it was really nice to talk to him.
When we arrived at the CFI office, we were told to go with the Mobile Van (a medical van that visits to a couple of tribal villages in the mountains and then return to the CFI office. The villages were AMAZING. Surrounded by spectacular views of waterfalls, lakes, rolling hills, mountains, trees, and flowers, these villages are in the perfect spot. There are rice patty all around, cows, chickens and goats walking around, and approximately 300 people residing in these villages. The first thing I did when stepping out of the van was step into a huge pile of cow poop!! Reid of course laughed, but we immediately began cleaning my sandal with water, scraping the poo onto a rock. Of course, soap was not available, so I was incredibly thankful for the hand sanitizer I religiously carry with me.
In the next village, just down the road from the first, there were many locals that came running to the van for treatment of symptoms, like: fungus, skin infections, fevers, coughs, and boils. One woman remained in her house, and when I peeked inside I saw that she looked quite ill. She was coughing a lot, and when she stood up I saw she was very frail. So, I asked for her to come out of her house to see the doctor in the Medical Mobile Van. The doctor’s name is Dr. Deepa, and she diagnosed the woman with a fever and cough. I wasn’t convinced this was the extent of her illness, but we had so many people to tend to that there was no time to do a full check up on her.
After this village, the van brought us back to our house where we had a quick lunch and then walked back to the CFI hospital. I found out we were going to watch some more tubal ligations, and I knew I would get sick if I saw another one. Instead, I headed back to the CFI office and talked to Akshata, the program manager of the Child Sponsorship Unit. She assigned a Social Worker, by the name of Suvarna, to show me the lay of the land. I read progress reports written about sponsored children and learned how to write one myself.
On the way home, I saw a large truck moving slowly with a statue of Goddess Durga on the back of it and many people dancing on the street behind it. It was part of celebrating the last day of the 9-day festival, Navratri, when they worship Goddess Durga, a warrior goddess. As I passed by, a man was lighting a firecracker and I, unknowingly, almost walked right into it. It blew my ears out! I wasn’t sure if I had gone deaf or not for a few seconds there. Then, I went to the market where Jess and I picked up our Indian outfits from the tailor. On our way to the internet cafe, we saw the truck again! It had been making its way through the whole town. We came across some older women that kept us from the crowd so we wouldn’t get pink powder thrown at us, as is tradition during many Indian festivals. They were so sweet!

My first week as an Intern...

Well, what can I say? I’m living in the most amazing house with two amazing roommates. Our cook is named Sheetha, and she makes us three wonderful Indian meals a day. I wake up every morning at 6:30 and walk 10 minutes to a temple, where I take free yoga lessons. At 7:30, I walk back home and prepare for my day. Graciously, Sheetha cooks us breakfast and serves us chai, and sends us away with our lunch as we walk to the CFI (Children’s Future India) office every morning at 9:30. This is where we are interning! My two roommates are medical interns, and I am a social work intern. The first day, we were invited to the CFI hospital to watch a surgeon perform tubal ligations on six women. As I entered the room, I couldn’t believe what I saw. CFI provides free “family planning” surgeries (including vasectomy’s, tubal ligations, and abortions) for low-income families. Because these surgeries are free, the patients are given local anesthesia which means they are awake and can feel some pain. As I watched the surgeon dig into the women’s stomachs, pull out their fallopian tubes, tie them and cut them, I became quite nauseous. So, I left the room before he was finished and didn’t feel very good for the rest of the day! Good thing I’m not planning on being a doctor…

For the first week, we all observed the HIV/AIDS aspect of CFI. Every day, we traveled to different villages and observed HIV/AIDS awareness seminars, games, and teachings in the middle schools on HIV/AIDS. In all of these places, we were served so well. We were served juice, soda, chips, sweets, flowers, blessings, and love from every place we entered. I am in awe of their hospitality. The greatest challenge I have faced thus far has been the language barrier. I am learning more Hindi and Marathi, but slowly. I want to speak with the locals so much, but they know very little English and I know very little Marathi (the local language). BUT, I am determined to learn more!
I have weekends off, and this weekend I will be doing homework, writing reports for CFI on what I have observed, going to the movies (there is a new movie called Hadippa, which is a Bollywood film), and going to buy a sari! Tomorrow (Sunday), there is a gynecological camp that Jessica and I have been invited to, where we would assist the gynecologists in female check-ups and STI (STD) treatments. I hope I’m helpful! I’ll post again soon… wish me luck!!

Sept 17-Sept 20th: Train and Arrival to Pen!

Photo: The family I met on the train!
The train to Mumbai was loooonnnggg. It took 2 days to get there, with barely any sleep. I paid for the Non-AC Sleeper Coach, which was super cheap ($8 for the whole trip!), but extremely unsanitary. Nonetheless, I was glad I saved so much money. I ended up sitting with two wonderful families, which made me feel very safe. One family was just a mother and her daughter, and the other was a husband, wife, grandmas, uncle, and auntie. We talked the whole time, and I learned a lot more Hindi! For example, if you want to ask, “What is your name?”, you say “Apka naam kya hai?”. They shared all their food with me, and I shared everything I had with them. It was so nice to have such sweet company on the train. It made all of my worries go away.
The next morning, the family asked if I could come with them and stay at their house one night. It was so nice, but I had already made plans to get picked up in Mumbai at a certain time. So, we had a very long goodbye as they expressed their “very sad feelings” about leaving me. They said I was a part of the family now, and that I needed to visit next time I was in India. When they left, Asma and her mom were still there and they didn’t depart the train until 8pm that night.
I encountered a beggar boy on the train, who I made friends with. He was so happy that we were friends, and we had a lot of laughs together. He had no family, and traveled on trains asking for money, eating when he could, and sleeping anywhere. He was immensely dirty, but had the biggest smile on his face all the time. I wondered why he was so happy. He couldn’t have been older than 8 years old, and this made me very sad. Why doesn’t the Indian government do anything about these children?? They’re all over India, surviving on their own while they can. Very sad. At one point, he just got off the train. He was ready to take on another city.
The other family left, and they also invited me to their house. It is amazing how hospitable the people are here. When entering someone’s home in India, you are treated as a god. The belief here is that guests are “like gods”, and they serve you treats, meals, and food. Often, they give flowers and other gifts to guests and are very grateful to have someone in their home. I had to decline the offer, but I so badly wanted to go with them.
Luckily, I met two boys that asked me to meet their family. I went to their sleeping area, and their mom, auntie, and sister invited me to sleep near them. WHEW, I was glad! So, I moved my stuff and slept near them!
The next morning, we arrived to Mumbai at 3:30am. I had met a man of the name Shah in Agra one week before, and he offered to pick me up and let me stay at his and his wife’s house for one night! But, he picked me up and unfortunately had to go to the airport and fly to Delhi because his brother had gotten very sick. Kindly, he brought me to a safe hotel and paid for my stay, which was the most expensive room I had stayed in yet. The hotel was Rs. 2,640, which is about $56 per night! I couldn’t believe it! I asked him to bring me to a cheaper hotel, because I couldn’t afford it and he refused. Instead, he paid for it graciously, wished me well, and left. The kindness in India is unbelievable.
I went to McDonalds in Mumbai, and it was great! Similarly, they have chicken burgers and ice cream and French fries. But, they don’t have beef! The majority of Indians are Hindu, and Hindu’s believe cows are holy. So, they do not eat beef. Even mentioning eating a cow is offensive. I happily ate a chicken burger in this air-conditioned American-like fast-food restaurant, and I felt great. HA HA.
The next day, I met up with my fellow interns at a guesthouse in Mumbai! And, I had met one of them, Reid, at an orientation in Corvallis before India. I couldn’t believe it! The other one, Jessica, is from Alaska. From here, we drove to Pen, which is about 2 ½ hours south of Mumbai. And, we arrived to our house… our large bunglow in a small town called Pen, that will be living in for the next 10 weeks. YAY!!!

September 16th- Last Day in Rishikesh!

Yoga was much more difficult today than any of the other days. It was filled I went to breakfast with my friends, Lindsey and Edden, and we went all out. We ordered about six dishes, including banana porridge, chocolate pancakes, fruit salad, eggs, toast, hashbrowns, cheese tomato toast, and of course mineral water and tea. All of this came to a whopping total of Rs. 310 (about $6)!!! We couldn’t believe it. Gotta love India.
Although it was my last day in Rishikesh, I was feeling quite fatigued. So, I finished my Peace Corps application online, and rested until 5pm when I had a spectacular massage. She pulled, stretched and rubbed until I felt like jello. It was soooooo necessary.
I spent my last night at dinner next to the Ganges with Lindsey and Edden. And, funny enough, some people I had met in Jaipur were at the same restaurant! It’s amazing the same places tourists go to, and at the same time! Lindsey started feeling sick and had to go back to the cottage, but I had to go to the ATM. So, Edden and I went on a half hour walk to the ATM. On our way back, we encountered a hippie-looking Indian man asking if we wanted to “Ganga” and a dog who seemed like he had some issues similar to rabies that freaked me out. We stopped to push an enormously heavy cart pulled by an elderly man up a hill. Lastly, we walked through this alley that was completely surrounded by monkeys. As cute as they are, I was so scared b/c of how dangerous they can be- especially in numbers. So, I walked behind Edden slowly the whole time up the stairs and we walked right next to monkeys on the stairs on all around us. I was afraid I was going to get bitten! We got out bite-free, though, and I was so relieved!! What a night.

September 15th: 2nd Waterfall

This morning I went to yoga and had breakfast with my Canadian friend, Ali. Afterwards, we walked around town a bit, got lunch, and then trekked to another waterfall about 2 miles away. On the way, there were tons of monkeys jumping through the trees. I obtained a large stick that I carried with me the whole way to scare the monkeys away if they chose to attack. Although, I didn’t end up needing it, it made me feel safe! Ha Ha. The waterfall was not as big as the one I had seen a couple days before, but was still absolutely gorgeous. I was glad for the exercise too, since I had eaten so much earlier! There is so much natural beauty in India, and I am so privileged to have gotten to see some of it.
Unfortunately, most towns and cities in India are completely littered with trash and animal/human feces. However, they seem to take care of the Himalayas and the Ganges. There are people that come and pick up the trash, similar to the ones that we always see on the side of the freeways in America. It’s nice to know they try and preserve some of the most beautiful natural wonders of the world.
I spent the rest of the night simply resting.

September 14th, A day of Rest

After yoga and trekking, my body was so sore! So, I spent the day around the village area where my cottage is centered. The highlight of my day was walking to town and buying a grapefruit, which are the size of melons here. The funny thing is that the skin is so thick that there is barely any fruit in it! Nonetheless, it was still yummy. I also bought a whole cucumber that I had to peel. Often, I cannot eat fresh fruits and veggies around town, because they cut and wash them in dirty water. But, I’m safe when I peel these things myself. That’s pretty much all I did today, and I was satisfied.

Himalayan Waterfall

Today, I hiked about 3 ½ miles with my new Scottish friend, Trent, along the dirt road overlooking the Ganges. Doesn’t that sound pleasant? Well, it wasn’t actually. If you’ve watched my video clip I posted on Facebook showing the way Indians drive, you’ll know what I mean! Along this dirt road there had been a huge landslide. This meant traffic about two miles up the road. When the traffic finally started moving, the angry drivers whizzed by honking their loudest horns (each truck has a few different horn options) in my ears! When they passed by, the dust would fly in my face and into my eyes. On top of these things, India doesn’t have sidewalks. And, apparently they don’t have safety railings up mountains either. So, here we are miles up this dirt road getting honked at, dust in our eyes, up a mountain with no railing or sidewalk in the 100 degree humid air. We were unable to walk by the mountainside, because the landslide covered part of the road.

When we finally arrived to the entrance of the trek up to the waterfall, we took a small break, drank some water, and paid the Rs.30 (less than $1) each to enter. While sitting, we met this Israeli couple with whom we hiked up the mountain with. The mountain was pretty steep, so we took a few breaks to take photos and rest for a while. There were a couple pools underneath each waterfall, and the one at the top was the biggest. When we got to the pool, tons of people were swimming in it! I saw my American friend up there, and that was comforting. My friends swam, and I ate a Cliff Bar and watched. Oh, how I love Cliff Bars. Plus, I had a massive headache, so swimming didn’t sound good to me.

We finally arrived back to our cottages about 5 hours from when we started. After dinner, I went straight to bed. What a multi-faceted day! Filled with struggle, pain, heat, laughter, fun, beauty, and food. 

Rishikesh- 2nd day

1st photo: Ganges, 2nd: some locals chilling by the river, 3rd: me on Lakshman Juhla, 4th: view of Ganges from bridge, 5th: monkey eating banana, 6th: my yoga room/instructor, 7th: Himalayas and Ganges. This is the view I get to see every day!

Today, I woke up bright and early for a yoga class! As I walked up three stories, I entered a quiet room, windows open and breeze flowing, with two yoga mats laying on the marble floor. Little did I know, I paid $4 for an hour 1/2 one-on-one "Himalayan Yoga" session! This is unheard of in the U.S. I told my yoga instructor I was a beginner, and he proceeded to teach me everything. He first taught me how to meditate and one of the mantra's they repeat before beginning. It was so relaxing. Then, he taught me many stretches and moved my body to increase the stretch. During the poses, he did the same thing. I learned so much, and felt so comfortable and relaxed with him. Afterwards, he performed acupressure on my hands and then massaged my back repeating, "you will be quite sore tomorrow. this may help some." I was so pleased with my yoga class, and felt so lucky to have such a wonderful teacher all to myself!

I also walked across Lakshman Jhula (which is spelled a variety of different ways, I've noticed). This is a bridge across the Ganges that is often surrounded by monkeys. This time, I only saw monkeys at the end of the bridge, but they were eating bananas that someone kept giving them. It was so cute! I'm still amazed that every animal in India just wanders around as people do. The town was pretty cool, and I bought a gorgeous wrap around skirt that has two sides to it for Rs.125 (less than $3)! I love that!

At 5pm, I had an ayurvedic massage for an hour for $6! In America, professional massages are about $60/hour. I'll admit, though, that the massage was not as good as the ones I've had in the U.S. The bed was on the floor, and the woman just stood in the room watching as I undressed. When I lied down, she poured oil all over my back and started slapping it. While there were some good rubs here and there, I was mostly uncomfortable. Then, as I turned over to lie on my back, there was no blanket to cover! My chest was completely exposed, which is something new for me during a massage. Thankfully, it didn't seem to phase her as I am sure she sees a few chests a day. This made me a little more comfortable. However, all in all, the massage did not meet my expectations. I have another massage scheduled on the 16th at a different place, so let's hope there's no slapping involved!!

Rishikesh-1st day

1st photo: India cappuccinos- consist of milk, chocolate, cinnamon, and an inch of froth, 2nd photo: two cobras slithering around my neck!, 3rd photo: the cobra man playing his magical instrument, 4th: my lovely hotel room, 5th: view of Ganges and Himalayas from the bus.

When I first arrived to Rishikesh, I was in utter awe of the beauty around me. As the bus drove through the lower Himalayas to Rishikesh, the Ganges surrounded every bridge. There had been much rain, so it was flowing quite fast. But, it was absolutely glorious. As I departed from the bus, I was mobbed by men asking me if I needed a rickshaw to my hotel. Well, let's just say I have learned a thing or two from my previous experiences. Therefore, I told them no, avoided eye contact, and walked away. I quickly came upon two young women and asked them where my hotel cottage was, called: Mount Valley Mama Cottage. They told me I needed to take a rickshaw, b/c it was up further in the mountains a few miles away. So, I walked towards the direction of the hotel until this man drove up asking if I needed a ride. I looked into his eyes and saw his honesty and kindness, which I had been looking for. I was so relieved and only paid Rs.30 (less than $1). Whew! I arrived and found out that Mama Cottage was full, but Green Valley Peace Cottage right next door had an open room. For Rs.150 (a little over $3) per night, I am staying on the first floor where I get my own room, bathroom, and hot water!!!!!! I couldn't believe it! I was forgetting all the things that had happened to me in Jaipur and felt completely safe here. This small community on the hilltop overlooking the Ganges River and the Himalayas is a haven for travelers. There are cottages and guesthouses surrounded by small multi-cuisine restaurants, massage spas, and yoga centers. I have met people from Israel, France, Germany, Scotland, Canada, Morocco, America, Italy, and many other places here. So great!

After settling in and showering, I had my favorite breakfast since coming to India ("banana milk porridge"). I felt so at peace, as no one was hassling me, men were not staring, and I was surrounded my nature. Afterwards, there was an Indian man sitting outside the restaurant with this really cool instrument thing and a basket in front of him. I thought nothing of the basket, but asked him to play his instrument. As he began playing, he lifted the top off the basket and out came 2 Cobras!!! Ah! I was freaked out. I mean, I've seen Cobras before in India, but not that close. As he played, they flared out and their heads started moving. Afterwards, he insisted that I let him put them around my neck. I know they take the venom out of their mouths, but I still thought he was crazy! Everyone around him was saying the Cobras don't bite, and eventually I gave in. It felt so weird with them around my neck, and after we got some pictures in I asked him to take them off of me. I was quite sure they wanted to bite my face off. Made for good photos, though.

The day was restful and wonderful. Thank you, Jonathan Poe, for suggesting this place to me. I didn't think I'd ever experience such an exquisite retreat. WOW.

Train to Rishikesh- September 10

I took a train ride from Jaipur to New Delhi, which took 5 1/2 hours. From there, I needed to buy a ticket to Haridwar. I was so lost in the train station, because there were no signs pointing to the direction of the ticket booth! I was searching all over, when I saw this guy with a really kind face and he looked like a student. Perfect! So, I approached him and asked him where the ticket booth was. He had no idea, but he helped me find it. Then, graciously, he helped me buy the ticket (which was an incredibly stressful thing, since everyone said the train was full. Nobody spoke English, so I had to rely on the guy I was with to help me)! Finally, after getting the ticket, he helped me get to my platform and waited with me until my train arrived! He told me about his wife and his little baby and had me talk to his wife on the phone. He kept saying, "I am so lucky to be helping you. An American." Wow, what a crazy thought... Lucky to help an American? I said, "I am lucky you are helping me!!!" ha ha ha.

So, I said good bye and off I went for a 6 1/2 hour train ride to Haridwar... The train ride was long, but I slept the whole way. Some of the Indians on the train woke me up when we arrived at the correct train station, and I was so thankful! Otherwise, I would have slept through it!

Trip to Jaipur- September 8th-10th

Today was filled with all sorts of weird things. The first part of the day was nice, because I simply rested. I went to the internet shop (they are all over the place), where I met a great little family that owned the shop. Connected to the shop, behind it, is their home! Which is quite common. The shop is like a little hole in a wall, and there is a door in the back that leads to their house. It's very cute, and the family was very welcoming. I sat with them for hours, as they assisted me in buying my train tickets online. We had ice cream, which is sold at every corner for less than $1 each. It's great. 

At 6pm, I took a train from Agra to Jaipur, which is in Rajasthan. It was about a 5 hour train ride, and I met some great people on the train that helped me practice my Hindi. Upon arriving in Jaipur, I was mobbed by taxi drivers. "Hello ma'am, yes here I am. You take rickshaw? I will take u where u need to go!" I chose the first one that approached me, which I will not do again. He led me to his younger brother who ended up being my taxi driver. He's 24, and a typical guy. Except, my experience is that the Indian men are much more forward. In southern India, the feel is much more different- it is very traditional there, the men are respectful and rarely look women in the eye (same with women to men). However, in Jaipur (north), it is a city full of tourists! There is a huge scam all throughout India, but especially in Jaipur, called the Gem Scam, which you can read about at the website. The taxi driver brought me to my hotel and insisted that I try the hotel next door to mine. I compared the two, and his did seem better. But, when I met the owner and his employees, I knew they were all slime balls. I negotiated a fairly good price, though, and all I wanted to do was sleep. The taxi driver convinced me to hire him the following day for an all day trip around Jaipur, where he would show me everything. For the lost cost of Rs. 300 (about $6 for the whole day), I accepted. He picked me up at 10am the next day, and brought me to many wonderful places. I saw the monkey temple, which is surrounded by monkeys, the King's graveyard, the observatory, and the water palace. That night, we attended a fair that they nightly only half and hour away from Jaipur. The fair/festival is called Chokhi Dhani, which is famous and written about in all India guide books! For only $6, we entered a new world. There are traditional Indian dancers all around that I watched, singing, Indian folk dance, magicians, puppet plays, camel rides, elephant rides (which was closed the night i went), and a large dinner provided!! The dinner was served in a large restaurant, where we sat at these long tables on cushions on the floor. We were served several portions of every kind of Indian curry dish. It was so yummy! 

Now to the scary stuff: Throughout the day, this taxi driver was trying to convince me that having a boyfriend in the U.S. doesn't mean anything in India. He told me how many girls come to Jaipur and have boyfriends, but they spend the night with Indian men, because "their boyfriends will never know". I insisted that despite what others may do, I am 100% faithful to Shane and only Shane. Hoping he would let it go, I tried to enjoy the sights. However, after Chokhi Dhani, when he was bringing me home, he asked if i wanted to "get a room with him". I refused him more times that I've ever had to say no before. Finally, he said: "Where did you learn this word, NO? It's very bad- you should say YES to everything." I was disgusted. Thank God he brought me safely to my hotel! I am so glad I was strong enough to say no, otherwise it could have been a complete disaster. Apparently, many women go to Jaipur just to have sex with the men there. It's absolutely despicable. I paid him when he left, and he apologized. Throughout his apology, however, he kept saying: "nobody ever forgets the sex they have with me". I wanted to scream at him. We had plans to meet one of his friends whose wife was German the next day, and I really wanted to still because I wanted to see their baby. We planned on him picking me up at 11am, but I had to go to the train station to confirm my ticket. So, I asked one of the guys outside my hotel to tell him I was going to be late. Right before I went to the train station, I stopped at an internet station. The men that worked there knew where I was staying, and this is how I learned about the "playboys" and the "gem scam" in Jaipur. They told me not to trust them, because they will tell me that they have a friend who has a German wife, and gain my trust this way! I couldn't believe it, because they explained everything I had experienced. Then, after bringing me to the German couple that own a jewelry store, they would somehow try and convince me to bring many precious gems to America to sell for lots of money. Of course, a down payment is required, and then the person gets in trouble at the border and often arrested. After learning these things, I decided not to speak to the taxi man any more. MUCH TO MY SURPRISE, he followed me to the train station and tapped on my shoulder while I was in line. "Kelly, why were you not at your hotel?" I explained to him that I was going to be late, but that I decided I didn't want to go afterall. He asked me why and insisted that I go with him. I made quite a few loud responses in the train station and outside to embarrass him and make him leave me alone. He continued to follow me for a couple hours. I went to a police stand and asked them to tell him to leave me alone. However, as soon as I left, there he was again. After awhile, he left me alone. I needed a taxi to bring me back to my hotel, and someone approached me telling me we could walk. I didn't know who he was, but he started telling me about his friend that has a German wife! Immediately, I knew he was part of the scam too! As soon as I got to my hotel, I gathered my things, hired a trustworthy taxi driver, and before leaving I was bombarded by my old taxi driver and his friends insisting that I tell them I am ignoring them. I told them I was finished with them, and that I no longer wanted to talk to them. I asked them to leave me alone, and then my taxi man drove me away. The entire day, I was scared that he would find me. After eating, I went to the train station and boarded my train hoping to God that he wasn't following me. I was able to calm down after an hour on the train, and I was so glad I was out of there! But, all I wanted to do was go home. I felt violated, disrespected, and there was nowhere I could go. I felt like every man that I talk thinks dirty thoughts about me, and I was disgusted. 

Taj Mahal, Sept. 7

First pic: a man hand-carving a marble table, 2nd: weaving a wool rug!, 3rd pic: me in front of Agra Fort, 4th: feeding a cow that wandered into the hotel restaurant (a regular occurrence), 5th: mama monkey and baby walking across rail of my hotel, 6th: Taj Mahal, 7th: I am holding the Taj!!, 8th: posing in front of Taj, 9th: AMAZING VIEW of Taj. Wow, was the Taj Mahal absolutely 

magnificent. I mean, it's more magnificent than one can imagine! I had only seen pictures before, and they definitely didn't do justice. As I entered the pearly gates of the Taj with a ticket purchased at the mere price of Rs. 750 (about $15), I was approached by a tour guide. Since this was such a big adventure, I hired him (Ali), and he took photos of me as well as explained the history of the Taj. I spent about an hour and 1/2 there simply in awe of the beauty. The Taj Mahal is made entirely of marble and semi-precious stones. Built by about 22,000 workers, every part of the Taj is symmetrical. It is amazing. Here are some photos of the Taj Mahal, and I hope you all can experience it with your own eyes some day! 

After this experience, I headed back to my hotel, which is a 1 minute walk from the western gate of the Taj. Truly unbelievable! There was a great view of the Taj on the rooftop of my hotel, which I enjoyed very much. When I walked up to the rooftop, I was carrying 2 bananas in a bag. Apparently, the monkeys can smell the bananas because one came up to me! He walked directly towards me and pawed my leg for a banana. Pretty scared, as I am told monkeys often carry diseases and often bite people, I gave him one banana. After this, I was so excited to watch him eat it right in front of me! Literally, a foot away from me. Naturally, he walked up to me again for my other banana. Good thing bananas cost nearly nothing here! This was an experience in itself, and I am proud to say I have survived my monkey encounter with some great pictures and a video of the monkey eating the banana. Today was a good day.